Dillards jewelry design a new generation of product development for the department store.
A bra - that the well-Bra is designed - is a triumph of engineering. And that's what Bill Dillard III called 3-D bra wire curves.
"A head of media - a shirt or pair of pants or something - has about 10 to 15 different components: zippers, fabrics, son," said Dillard, vice president of merchandising at Dillard Inc. Little Rock. "Bra generally 40, 50 [Components] It's like building a rocket .. almost like a miracle of engineering. "
Three weeks ago, Dillard - not known for search advertising - issued a press release announcing the latest incarnation of the chain of clothing stores in the wire is patented 3-D curves and the brand: a T- BFF shirt bra. The B.F.F. The second is to use innovative bra, launched in March. Both are part of a collection of Dillard of the Modern Movement, was designed, the company said, six years ago, when Dillard "tough team product development to push the envelope in bra design to a affordable. "
Dillard, 39, sat with the Arkansas companies to discuss his work leading the team in addition to clothing, accessories for women and the bag design. Dillard led the visit of 90 minutes in the labyrinth of the room where the work of designers Dillard (Dillard He also oversees the cosmetics.) - With jewelry, bags and, finally, to colleagues, the house brain behind the bra.
He also designed the headquarters of Little Rock is a private label apparel for men, women and children's clothing Dillard and junior clothing.
But Bill Dillard III (or B3, as it was known at headquarters) led the group, most of them women, to determine the exact color of lavender sachets Tre Vero store or decide how much bling to highlight Dillard
Jewelry & Happy Christmas.
Who was enthusiastic about the work and knowledge, although not being very happy to join the choir "is very funny!" when a reporter flashy jewelry designers show their snow pendant fireball, new this holiday season. Instead, he praised crystal display snowman glittering and team spirit, with a chuckle.
The second quarter report, more recently, Dillard recorded a net profit of $ 6.8 million compared to a net loss of $ 26.7 million in the second quarter of 2009. The transition to profitability came despite a drop in sales of goods per cent during the same period last year.
However, drill-down in the report showed that sales of clothing and accessories for women, who comprised 40 percent of net sales Dillard, rose 1 percent in the second quarter. Although B3 is responsible only for the accessories segment, he and his team consider any increase in sales during the recession - officially ended or not - win.
Product Development
Dillard, CEO William Dillard II, son and grand-son of the founder of William T. Dillard, describing how the company defines the product development.
"This is our product ..." design concept, and working with manufacturers to bring to market and then sell. This is a process that is completely vertical to the idea of this product on the shelves and we are trying to sell ".
Dillard ideas for private label "products come from many places, but certainly not least those who listen to our customers .... Of course, people know a number so that you like or dislike, this is that sells ".
And sales of accessories and shoes Dillard (Bill III does not control shoe segment) was raised or grown, despite the economic crisis.
Product development - in essence, part of the private label business - help companies remain competitive by providing "our big opportunity to differentiate themselves," said Dillard. "It gives us an excellent opportunity to provide products high quality with an attractive value.
"So the way it works is, in general, if you buy on the market, you have three markup of goods. Manufacturers take a margin, is the wholesale markup, and then take the markup," he said .
"But with private label or exclusive product, the kind that we have developed, you're really only dealing with two markup," Dillard markup markup and manufacturer.
Less link in the chain Dillard markup means it can pass the savings to customers.
"We must be careful," said Dillard. "We are a store brand," which means Dillard sells national brands as Coach and Dooney & Bourke bag, for example. "And many of our customers come to us specifically for the brand."
In addition, the margin on private label brands are often higher. "But," Dillard said: "It depends on what you are trying to do strategically.
"I see many of our competitors and effectively use private label to sell goods at lower prices and, in my opinion, inferior merchandise actually often a different philosophical predisposition of the .."
Dillard cited a study by Consumer Reports National Research Center, published in July, customers of retailers surveyed nationally. Dillard received "invaluable" for quality products, with Costco, Sears and Macy. Dillard, who was selected for women and children of his son, personal care, home decor, and kitchen. And Consumer Reports says: "When it comes to service, Dillard stand out from the pack."
B3 said high value
Dillard: "It is certainly not the goal."
$ 10 million arm
Dillard said the development of the product comes into play when the company, after going to the market, still can not find a product that customers want to think. Dillard and when he found a gap in terms of quality, fashion and value, then that is considered to fill this void with their own products, often designed in-house.
3-D Curves bra is a good example, says Dillard. In a press release in October, Dillard said that when private Movement bra modern brand was designed, "the market is flooded with bra very cheap How can you compete with that?. We do not. We simply create the bra the most innovative. "
At headquarters, Dillard said: "Our team of underwear really talking about changing the lives of women who are motivated to get a woman in a bra that matches the shape of her body .. And when is just and convenient to everything else, give the type of function that was looking for, may change his whole conception. "
"We are going there and we are saying," Let the game changing bra, "said Dillard." And we work with one of our producers in Asia, and he knew he was a manufacturer of wire that has a technological breakthrough in the thread. And they took over the two-dimensional flat and make the change and curve, "in three dimensions.
"And then we put in a bra top quality with all the bells and whistles, and we actually had a woman say". Look, I can sleep in it "is how comfortable it is.".
Zofia Agee, designer for the brand of Modernism, the design of bra 3-D. Building a better bra is "very complex", he said. "This is not only technically, but there are many things involved in building a proper bra fitting is on the line, about a cup of fabric, the look .. Everything is very important. "
In his office in the department of design underwear, bra picture shows Agee on his computer. Special software is used in designing almost all clothing and accessories.
A factory in Hong Kong has developed a single twisted wire are used in 3-D. Agee said that a little twist allows more flexibility and convenience.
Dillard, who has heard that others want to take advantage of innovation, have exclusive use of patented wire until the end of 2011 and sought to extend the agreement.
"Three-dimensional culture is a big trend right now," said Dillard. "All films will be in 3-D, three-dimensional television is ... once again, we jump on this with regard to the name we give this bra wire has no name just their patented curve over, we began to see and play., and talk about how we use it. And, of course, the next challenge is how do you know about the story, because if you just to put that there, someone will go, "Well, it's a good comfortable bra." But you will not sell much to not attract anyone's attention .. "
But the bra drew attention. In about three weeks the introduction of 3-D bra wire curve 1 March, became a bra bestseller Dillard.
Dillard said: "Probably will sell $ 10 million this bra a" less than a year of its launch.
Jewelry, handbags and more
Dillard also oversees private company develops brand jewelry and handbags and other accessories such as scarves and gloves.
Congratulations Kline, product coordinator in the department of jewelery design, said the department has six private label brands and two designers. Among the private label Cezanne.
"Many of our brands that Dillard personally just because we feel like it was only a greater impact, without telling people that it is our exclusive brand," said Kline.
Jewelry design is a collaborative process. "We market for products of this land and pick up sound all the time, because just because we love does not mean that customers will love," said Kline.
One of the biggest contributors are the customers. Dillard that look at what sells and what customers are saying.
Dina Miller, manager of the commodity division, said: "achieve our shops and our customers, we spent a lot of time visiting the store during the past year, I think I have about 100 of our stores across the country .., north to Colorado for our store in Brownsville, Texas. "
"When we were in San Antonio, Texas, we close our shop at La Cantera, which is close to Six Flags," said Miller. "So you see lots of people came, some Europeans, etc. And they just said, "Christmas is not the same thing We want more bling .. We want different things."
In response, designers have created a crystal sparkling snowman, among other books, and sales took off.
Jewelry designers, using computer software, sketches of their creations, and write specifications such as materials and measures. Sometimes you have a prototype of pearls and pieces that have in their booth. Are provided to vendors who make a sample. Samples back to the designer for Dillard improvement.
"Jewelry is a company in full," said Miller, and the trend depends, therefore, outside of his imagination of designers and customer feedback service subscription, as Dillard, trends and Stylesight Doneger Group.
"Nothing takes the place of the team here and know our customers," said Dillard.
In the bag, as in jewelry design is a collaborative process. Dillard has five private labels: Three True, Antonio Melani, Gianni Bini, Korto Momolu (designer of Little Rock, who was runner-up "Project Runway" TV) and Kate Landry, each with its own profile.
Betsy Parkinson, director of handbags private label, working on projects for the three true as a designer in New York, who worked for the renowned designer Catherine Malandrino.
Certainly three, the upper end of private label bags, is "a kind of complex, but with the feeling of an Italian of the old school," said Parkinson. "We are seeing luxury brands and that the market is said and what we see is that this will lead to specific rooms that people can stay for an 'all, who can convey the experience is over .. "
The designer bag will draw inspiration from many sources, including trips to Europe.
The biggest challenge in maintaining the current stock market is "being different," said Parkinson. "We have a very differentiated on the floor seems to end higher if the end is not higher, as some lines of branded products out there that all of us .. But what sets us apart. It gives people a reason to come buy from a competitor you are. "
And although this sounds like fun design of products, high-pressure jobs.
"There is a term," said Dillard. "There were intense negotiations, because as I said, we must provide value was simply non-negotiable at this time .. No matter how big it is if the customer does not see the value. And there are many choices for customers today. "
"There is no more room for mediocrity," said Dillard. "You're good you go."
After a two hour visit with his team and B3, fatigue journalist. Dillard seemed excited.
He admitted, however, that what he and his team did was "hard work, it does not happen just like that .."
"But we are all motivated by it," said Dillard. "The quality of the products you put out there, the chance to see a sell-through, especially when he really knows his influence emotionally - things that their reward.
"And the numbers are clearly unsatisfactory, but not the end all, be a byproduct.
". Mickey Drexler, who was a hero of mine - now runs J. Crew, Gap ran before - He said:" Profit is like the air is alive and "necessary and useful, is not fun, but if the "reason for this will be easier to justify cutting angles. "There must be something that is over in terms of your motivation. "
Dillards jewelry design a new generation of product development for the department store.
